Der Big Wave Charger Shawn Dollar hat sich bei einem Surf an einem einsamen Spot in Kalifornien schwer verletzt. Nach aktuellen Berichten brach er sich den Nacken an vier Stellen und wird momentan im Krankenhaus von Santa Cruz behandelt. Er wurde von  den anderen Surfern im Wasser gerettet und sofort ins Krankenhaus gebracht.
Hier seine Nachricht auf Instagram:

As news is getting out I wanted to let you know that I'm stable condition and going to be okay. I expect a full recovery. I'm extremely lucky. I'm sorry to share the news this way to my family and friends but as I lay in my hospital bed I need rest and getting back to everyone isn't possible. Every day is a gift. Tell the people around you how much you love them because it's all that matters. I love you @jenn_jetaime Thank you to all my family and friends for all the support. I feel so loved・・・ Big wave professional surfer Shawn Dollar injured on Labor Day off the Central Coast of CA. Santa Cruz, CA – Renowned professional big wave surfer, Titans of Mavericks competitor and multiple Guinness World Record holder Shawn Dollar of Santa Cruz, CA was injured yesterday surfing large waves off of California’s Central Coast. A strong south swell reportedly produced waves upwards of 25+ feet with unfavorable mixed conditions putting Dollar in a critical scenario that caused him to act accordingly to protect himself. Shawn broke his neck in four places, incurred head trauma and a concussion. He made it to safety and then was quickly cared for by his fellow surfers in whom transported him expeditiously to the ER for immediate care and evaluation. He is in stable condition at this time. The entire surfing community extends support and love to Shawn and his family. Shawn will be recovering and rehabilitating over the next few months to return to the line up soon. “I’m so thankful I’m alive and present today. Being surrounded by my loved ones through this time has been paramount for me. I’m so grateful for those who where there in my scariest and darkest hour and who acted on my behalf to get me to safety and reach the hospital in time. I’m thankful to learn that even with these severe injuries I will make a full recovery. They will be met with challenges but with my family’s support and community encouragement I will be back in no time.” – @shawndollar

Ein von Shawn Dollar (@shawndollar) gepostetes Foto am 8. Sep 2015 um 13:37 Uhr